Changes

- A Willem Eprom programmer board v3.x or better (+cable & amp; power adapter).

Used a Willem v4.5 board and software 0.98D in the pics, but the other version boards/software works just as well.

Eproms is bacisly like a cd-r rw .. you can only write to them ONCE .. unless you have special hardware (eprom eraser). So to make it really simple: pretend that you have 16000 dominoes .. and you tip them all at once .. forming a unique pattern that makes a amstrad chip. Problem is .. you can only tip them once.

After reading that .. did you notice the difference between 27128 and 27C128 (The "C" part) while reading that? The "C" part like a 27C128 need 6V .. but the non-"C" part like 27128 do not (only need 5V). But how do you make sure that the your the odd used chip "pulls" you got cheap off ebay will work  ? Use 6V only  !

You have gotten your Willem programmer board and some empty eproms. Lets set it all up.First turn off you pc and remove the power cord from the pc too.Then connect the Willem board using the (hopefully) supplied parallel printer cable (DB25).First install the software (like setup_98d5_PCB45.exe).Reboot you pc and double click the xp_stop_polling.reg if needed (donno about Vista).

=== Step 2 ===  

=== Step 3 ===  

 The "write protection" jumper. Probably the only jumper you actually have to set manually yourself When your are READING your eproms .. make sure to keep this at 5V normal position.

Once you got the whole thing connected and powered. Its time test everything (if this is your first time better use a empty eprom first )

Then just hit the "SAVE" button to save the file. The software defaults the save format to a binary .bin file. Note that you may need rename the files after to a .ROM file (large letters) if you want them to be recognised by most amstrad emulators

Nearly the same board setup is needed when writing to a eprom as when reading. So if this is your first time using the board, you will need to go trough the same 8 steps.The difference: in step 6 you need to take off the brown jumper to allow the 6V programming supply voltage  !!

Once everything is set up and the software is running click on the "BLANK TEST" button to see that the eprom actually is empty.Should it say "not empty" then doublecheck all your board settings .. if you chose a wrong setting like wrong Vpp or the chip is larger/smaller that you think .. it may report back as not empty even tho it actually is.

If the chip gives you a "Device is empty" you can go ahead. Load up the rom you want written (click load) and press "PROGRAM CHIP" to burn. Takes 3-5 seconds as it also does a verify after writing.

Yes is also works quite nicely, ive burned a couple of 27256/27C256 myslef. Only had to change the chip pattern (step 1) according to the Willem software. One small hickup is that the software cant burn half a rom, so you will have to make your 16kb rom into a 32kb one first.A quick copy did it for me in Dos/command (cmd): <pre>COPY /B Protext1.bin+Protext2.bin Protext32.bin</pre> Merged the 2 identical 16kb Protext roms into a "double" 32kb one. Works nicely with a Rombo Romboard, tho i dont really know what part of the rom is actually used You can use any other merging software of cause, if the dos/cmd isnt your thing.

Use common sense when operating the board.

WARNING: Make SURE not to access the board from software without a chip has been inserted and locked in place &nbsp;!!It IS possible to change chips while the power is on and the software is open on your pc, but better not accidentally press anything in the software while changing.No reason to power the board unless you are just about to read or write a rom.

http://www.4shared.com/dir/35960115388657/3b5f ... aringdaeb09f0/EPROM_WILLEM.html<br>

Ebay is probably the place. Note that 27C256 are cheaper and easier to find than 27C128 ones. Do note that some sellers isnt always the most reliable .. "100% erased and tested" sometimes means the opposite Better buy small quantities first.

Quict easy and cheap too. A bit dangerous tho. To erase a eprom you need a stong doze of UV light to shine down the little window in the top of the eprom. The doze of UV light is so strong that should you get some in your eyes you would go BLIND and should you get some on your skin you will get burned. Thats why eprom erasers are always a closed box with a special drawer so you cant accidentally look at the UV bulb.Buying a cheap eprom eraser is easy on ebay too. A quick search for "eprom eraser" will get you a long list with prices as low as $10. One of those cheap chinese ones will do the job nicely, but you may wanna be a little more carefull when handling it. Maybe putting the eraser into a black garbage bag or similar to make sure its sheltered properly (cant hurt to be extra carefull).27C128/27128/27C256/27256 eproms usually need a doze of UV light for 20 minutes to be completely empty.If you are worried about the whole erasing thing, then maybe it better to just stick to just buying already empty eproms as they are cheap enough.

Q: Im getting a "Hardware Error: Check Power & amp; connection"?

A: Make sure both parallel & amp; power cable is connected and plugged in. Make sure the "power" jumper is set correctly (Step 8 ). Could also mean that the board is dead.

QA: Im getting a "Device Eprom appears not to be empty and it is NOT Empty likely to happen if you buy used chips. Could also be a wrong setting setting with either chip patteren or Vpp ($000000step 1 &amp; 2)" error?.

A: Eprom appears not to be empty and it is likely to happen if you buy used chips. Could also be a wrong setting setting with either chip patteren or Vpp (step 1 & 2).  <br> Q: I programmed a eprom and everything seemed fine, didnt even get any errors, but when i use the rom in my romboard it dosnt work?

 <br> Q: I pressed the Program button and everything started ok, but suddenly got stuck at 1-2%? Also im getting a "Error at 0x0001F3 Chip = 0xFF Buffer = 0x18" &nbsp;? (or similar message).